Annapurna IV Expedition (7,525 m / 24,688 ft), the mountain rises in the Annapurna range of north-central Nepal, on the long ridge that links Annapurna III to the massive wall of Annapurna II. The peak stands above the village of Humde in Manang district and is clearly visible from several points along the Annapurna Circuit, one of the most celebrated trails in the Himalayas. It was first climbed on 30 May 1955 by a German expedition led by Heinz Steinmetz via the North Face and Northwest Ridge, and this Northwest Ridge remains the standard route today.
Compared with its neighbours in the Annapurna massif, Annapurna IV is the least dangerous and least technical, yet it still demands sound mountaineering skills. The route involves steep snow slopes, sections of hard ice and rocky ground protected by fixed lines, particularly between Camp I and Camp II. From Base Camp at around 4,800 m, we establish three high camps: Camp I at 5,500 m, Camp II at 6,500 m and Camp III at 6,800–6,900 m, from where the summit push is made in a suitable weather window. The mountain sees far fewer climbers than other peaks in the region, so expeditions here enjoy a quiet base camp and superb views of Annapurna II, Annapurna III, Manaslu and the Manang valley.
This expedition also carries a practical purpose. Under Nepal’s proposed Tourism Bill 2081, climbers must first summit a peak above 7,000 m in Nepal before they can obtain a permit for Mount Everest. In response to this new rule, Imagine Nepal is introducing the Annapurna IV Expedition so that our clients can gain the required 7,000-metre experience and qualify for Everest and other 8,000-metre peaks in Nepal. Details of the regulation are available on our blog: New Rule Bars Direct Everest Climb Without Prior 7,000m Peak Experience.
With full logistics, an experienced kitchen team and personal climbing Sherpa support at a 1:1 ratio, Annapurna IV is an ideal stepping stone for climbers preparing for the world’s highest mountains.
