The first summit of Everest in 2026
Mount Everest
The Road to the Summit
Phase 1 — Breaking the Icefall Blockage (26 April)
Phase 2 — Camp 2 to the South Col (by 8 May)
Phase 3 — Fixing to the Balcony (12 May)
Phase 4 — Summit Day (13 May)
- Between 10:38 and 10:48 AM Nepal time, sixteen members of the Imagine Nepal expedition stood on the summit of Everest.
With the route fixed to the Balcony and a clear weather window identified across multiple forecasts, the plan was set for the final push to the summit on 13 May.
The night before, however, did not unfold as expected. Having been assured that the route to the summit would be fixed early, Imagine Nepal stepped back to allow the designated fixing team to lead. But there was no movement from the South Col until 1:00 AM, and so, once again, Imagine Nepal stepped in.
Three of Imagine Nepal’s main Sherpas, who had previously been stood down from the South Col after sufficient manpower was confirmed, were called back into action, joined by two Sherpas from Elite Exped. It was a lean team, but it was enough. As expedition leadership put it: “If there is the will, even three people are enough to get the job done.”
Those three Sherpas pushed directly to the South Summit, fixing rope without any support along the way. From the South Summit onward, members of the broader fixing team joined them to complete the final stretch. The only limiting factor, by all accounts, was a shortage of rope.
The result was clear: Imagine Nepal’s team fixed the Everest summit route. Their effort made it possible for all other teams on the mountain to proceed with their own summit climbs that day. Expedition leadership expressed sincere gratitude to the full fixing team for their work across every stage — from the South Col all the way to the top.
The Summiteers from Imagine Nepal
- 1. Ila Nuru Sherpa
- 2. Fura Namgya Sherpa
- 3. Pasang Ngima Sherpa
- 1. Dawa Tenjin Sherpa
- 2. Lakpa Tamang
- 3. Jit Bahadur Sherpa
- 4. Lakpa Nuru Sherpa
- 5. Angdu Sherpa
- 6. Ngima Nuru Sherpa
- 7. Jangbu Sherpa
- 1. Hakon Andreas Hyttedalen — Norway
- 2. Hanne Nicole Briedis Hyttedalen — Norway
- 3. Charles Antoine Lanthire — Canada
- 4. Li Yitong — China
- 5. Hu Haina — China
- 6. Lui Haibo — China
